The 805 Kitchen Deep Clean: Grease, Hard Water, and the Spots Everyone Skips
A wipe-down keeps a kitchen presentable; a deep clean resets it. Here is the order of operations for cutting grease, descaling the sink and faucet, and reaching the spots a quick clean never touches.

A weekly wipe-down keeps a kitchen presentable. A deep clean is a different job: it lifts the thin film of cooking grease that settles on every surface, clears the hard-water scale that builds on the sink and faucet, and reaches the corners a quick pass never touches. In the 805, two forces work against you between deep cleans — airborne cooking oil that drifts well beyond the stove, and hard water that leaves a chalky residue wherever it dries. Tackle them in the right order and the whole room comes back to life in an afternoon.
Work top to bottom, and clear the decks first
Start by taking everything off the counters and out of the way. Deep cleaning around clutter just moves grime from one spot to another. Then work from the top of the room down — light fixtures and the tops of the cabinets first, counters and appliances next, floors last — so the dust and drips you dislodge land on surfaces you have not cleaned yet, not ones you just finished.
Before you scrub anything, get your degreaser working for you. Spray the range hood, the backsplash, and the stovetop, then let the product dwell while you move on. Most kitchen grime is far easier to wipe away after a cleaner has had a few minutes to break the grease down, and that dwell time is the single biggest difference between a quick clean and a deep one.
Degrease the range, hood, and backsplash
The range hood does the heavy lifting in a kitchen, and it shows. Pull the metal mesh filter and soak it in hot water with a squirt of dish soap or a dedicated degreaser; twenty minutes of soaking saves a lot of scrubbing. Wipe the hood's underside and the fan housing while the filter soaks. On the backsplash and stovetop, let the degreaser sit, then lift the softened grease with a microfiber cloth rather than grinding at it. For cooked-on spots around the burners, a paste of baking soda and a little water, left to sit, loosens most of it without a harsh abrasive.
The oven: low effort, long dwell
Ovens reward patience over muscle. If you are doing this the manual way, coat the interior in a thick baking-soda-and-water paste, keeping it off the heating elements, and leave it overnight; wipe it out the next day and the residue comes with it. Soak the racks in a tub of hot, soapy water at the same time. If your oven has a self-cleaning cycle, run it only when you can ventilate the kitchen well — the high heat produces fumes and can stress older appliances, so open windows and turn on the hood. Either way, plan the oven around a window of time rather than a burst of effort.
A word on chemicals
Never mix cleaning products. Bleach combined with ammonia or with an acid — including vinegar and many descalers — produces dangerous gases. Finish with one product and rinse before you reach for another. Keep the kitchen ventilated while you work, and wear gloves with degreasers and oven cleaners.
Descale the sink and faucet
The sink is where the 805's hard water shows up most. Mineral scale builds on the faucet, around its base, and on the aerator until the spray pattern starts to wander. Wrap the faucet and spout in a cloth soaked with a descaling product or white vinegar, let it sit, then wipe; unscrew the aerator and soak it separately to clear the screen. For a stainless sink, clean with the grain of the metal and dry it afterward — much of what looks like permanent dullness is just dried mineral residue that buffs away once the scale is gone.
Inside the fridge and the small appliances
Empty the refrigerator shelf by shelf and wash the interior with warm water and a little dish soap rather than harsh chemicals, which you do not want near food. Pull the drawers and wash them in the sink. For the microwave, heat a bowl of water with a slice of lemon for a couple of minutes and let the steam loosen the splatter before you wipe — it works better than scrubbing. Descale the coffee maker and the kettle on the same pass, since they collect the same scale as the faucet.
Cabinets, handles, and the spots everyone skips
Cabinet fronts near the stove collect a sticky grease film you often notice only once it is gone; a degreaser and a soft cloth handle it. Pay special attention to the handles and the cabinet edge by the trash pull, which see the most hands. Then hit the genuinely forgotten places: the toe-kick panel under the lower cabinets, the gap and floor beside and behind the stove and refrigerator, the tops of the upper cabinets, and the trash can itself, inside and out. These are exactly the spots a move-out deep clean is graded on, and the ones that make a kitchen feel truly clean rather than just tidy.
Keep it from rebuilding
Once the deep clean is done, the kitchen mostly maintains itself with small habits: wipe the stovetop while it is still warm, dry the sink and faucet after the dishes, and run the hood whenever you cook to keep grease from drifting across the room. Fold the bigger jobs — the oven, the hood filter, behind the appliances — into a seasonal reset alongside your spring cleaning, and the deep cleans get easier every time. A bathroom runs on the same logic; the coastal bathroom deep clean is the next room to reset.